Recipes for Mutton Lovers-By Aashish Karode, Architect & Urban Design Professional

Recipes for Mutton Lovers-Saoji Mutton By Aashish Karode, Architect & Urban Design Professional

Like millions of others, I chase food experiences too, but with a difference- When I travel to places, I get recommendations from friends and local gastronomes to find new and interesting mutton dishes... And I am often completely surprised by complex Indian mutton dishes and the special local methods of preparation that differentiate them- by ingredients, by regional influence, by climate and geographically, by culinary traditions, by season and by community recipes. Then at home, I often try out these recipes and share them with friends.

On recent travels, I was introduced to the great cult of the Saoji-Varhadhi cuisine in Nagpur. Saoji (the “Sahukar” word comes from this is basically an Indian community of Kshatriyas , who have a business background (like silk n weaving) and are concentrated in Vidharbha, and based in Maharashtra, Gujarat and South regions in parts of Karnataka and Andhra) cuisine is a very non-vegetarian affair with huge emphasis on mutton, chicken and fish.  Most Saojis love heir hot-n-spicy curries and their food- "Saoji Varhadhi" or "Saoji cuisine" has a cult following in the region in and around Nagpur. One such delicacy is the exotic, hot and spicy Saoji Mutton. I’d heard so much about its cult status in Nagpur and by pure chance, it was served at an event I attended.

Saoji is differentiated from other mutton recipes in India, by the sheer proportion of the spices used. The special ingredients in preparation of curry for Saoji mutton are used mainly to make a spice paste of dry coconut, poppy seeds (Khus-Khus), stone flower, fennel, alongwith whole garam masalas like black pepper, dry coriander, bay leaves, grey cardamom, cinnamon, cloves etc that are roasted and ground before being blended into a golden fried onion paste just before the cooking the mutton into the  gravy, Interestingly the Saojis include, Jwar-ka-Aata (Pearl Millet flour) in the gravy.

The cult recipe of Saoji-Varhadhi cuisine: Saoji Mutton 

There are 3 main processes used in this recipe that may seem long, but are necessary to fully appreciate the dish and incredibly easy to make. Just make sure you have all the ingredients ready. The recipe works in 3 phases- (a) the preparatory parboiling for fragrant mutton, (b) the dry roasting of spices and making of Saoji masala paste, and (c) assimilation of everything into the gravy. Additionally you must remember to use the dry coconut, khus-khus and Jwar-ka-Aata and coconut oil while cooking, that brings extra thickness to mutton gravy and adds a stickiness to the spice paste to adhere to the mutton pieces even while sautéing and during the gravy phase.

It is unusual for this excess of a fine combination of Indian spices, particularly the variety of garam masala to enhance the taste and texture of mutton. The cuisine as such, is famous for its texture and spice and the process of using the freshly roast-n-grind spice mix gives it a very distinct flavor which will fill your whole home with the aroma of hot flavours and its memorable overpowering spicy taste will get into your mind and soul.

Part 1: Method for the fragrant Pre-preparation of Mutton: 

In Indian cooking, in most successful mutton recipes the main idea is the fragrant pre-treatment of the raw mutton using a flavorful and aromatic pre-preparation of mutton. This process is done differently in different cuisines, using either marination, or parboiling with spices, or sautéing with whole spices.
Ingredients: 

1 kg goat mutton hind leg and thigh pieces, on the bone, cut to 2”pieces and or chops of 3” length
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
3-4 Bay leaves
10-15 Whole Peppercorns
Water for Mutton Stock

Method: 

In Saoji Mutton you first prepare the cleaned and washed mutton, boil the mutton pieces in salt water with whole peppercorns and bay leaves and save the mutton stock for use in the subsequent gravy

Part 2: Making Saoji Masala Paste for 1 KG Mutton

Ingredients: 
For the Dry Roast of Spices for Saoji Masala
10 cloves
15-20 whole black peppercorns
6 inch log cinnamon sticks
4 black cardamom
10 green cardamom
6 Tbsp. poppy seeds/Khus-Khus
1 cup dry powdered coconut
½ cup Jwar-Ka-Aata
6 Whole Dry Red Chilies
3 Bay Leaves
5 Tbsp. Cumin/Shahi Jeera
2 Star Anise
15 Tbsp. Coriander seeds
1/4 Tbsp. Nutmeg Powder
1 Blade Mace
1 Tbsp. Turmeric powder
1 Tbsp. Stone flower (Dagad phool)
2-3 Tbsp. Fennel Seeds/Saunf

For the Saoji Masala Paste 

1 Kg Onion, stir well in about 20 Tbsp. Coconut Oil, and fry till the onions caramelize to a golden brown colour. Blend into a paste

Method:

Heat a pan add whole garam masala, dry roast/sauté it all ingredients, in a slow flame add coconut powder, Jwar-ka-Aata, roast it for a minute, let it cool down put this in a blender make a powder. Later add the powder to the golden fried onion paste to make it into the great Saoji Masala

Part 3: Making Saoji Mutton Gravy Method: 

Method:
To assimilate the Ground paste and marinated mutton into the Saoji Mutton Gravy, heat coconut oil in a pan add ginger garlic paste, fry for a while and add par boiled mutton and fry for 10 mins. Then add the Saoji masala and fry for 10-15 mins till the mutton is almost done. Add water and mutton stock as required, and cook till done. Then add salt to taste as required, 1 Lemon Juice or as required. Add 2-3 Tbsp. finely chopped Coriander leaves before you serve. 

Serve this mutton hot with Jwar-ki-bhakri, with bread or roti.

 Note: It is also possible to make vegetarian dishes using the same style of Saoji gravy/curry. The vegetarians can enjoy Potato, Paneer or Soya Chunk dishes in the Saoji Curry to relish its authentic taste. Please know that Saoji food, although uses a number of spices, is not harmful to the body and does not lead to any digestive problems, as the process of cooking has been modified to overcome any health problems. The authentic Saoji stuff is served in Nagpur everywhere, but with differing results, but some of the famous joints in Nagpur are Kashinath near Sai Mandir, Jagdish Bhojanlaya in Gandhibagh, Ganesh Peth, Prachand Saoji, Umrer Saoji. In Pune, the Nagpur Hotel in Sadashiv peth, 1182, Sadashiv Peth, Shegde wada, also serves Saoji Mutton.